Post by toddlamp on Feb 8, 2013 21:32:10 GMT -5
Yesterday my Aero 125 was running fine. Today not so much. Between the two the only thing I did was change the float bowl gasket. It looked like some used a manilla folder (not kidding) as a gasket. I took off the carb, removed the bowl, swapped the gaskets, replaced bowl, re-installed the carb. The only hose/connection I removed was the vacuum line to the fuel valve. The fuel line, throttle cable, and bystarter were never disconnected.
At first I thought it was an intake leak but I torqued the bolts and they are nice an tight and the o-rings were in good shape.
Then I thought maybe the bystarted went bad (at that exact moment) but I checked it with a volt meter and the reading was 4.6 ohms cold (manual say 10 ohms max).
So finally I thought that changing the gasket somehow changed the air/fuel ratio (because it was leaking) so I played around with the idle stop screw. I still couldn't get it to run so I started changing the air screw. I set it to the recommended 1 3/4 turns but it won't stay running long enough to warm up so that I could alter the idle properly.
The carb is definitely getting fuel and spark. I know this because a couple times I was able to get it to run under throttle. The spark plug is a nice tan color with no oily residue on the electrode.
One thing I noticed was that there were no orings on either the idle screw or air screw. I checked the fiche online and didn't see any but any other carb I ever worked on had orings for proper adjustment.
I'm stumped.
At first I thought it was an intake leak but I torqued the bolts and they are nice an tight and the o-rings were in good shape.
Then I thought maybe the bystarted went bad (at that exact moment) but I checked it with a volt meter and the reading was 4.6 ohms cold (manual say 10 ohms max).
So finally I thought that changing the gasket somehow changed the air/fuel ratio (because it was leaking) so I played around with the idle stop screw. I still couldn't get it to run so I started changing the air screw. I set it to the recommended 1 3/4 turns but it won't stay running long enough to warm up so that I could alter the idle properly.
The carb is definitely getting fuel and spark. I know this because a couple times I was able to get it to run under throttle. The spark plug is a nice tan color with no oily residue on the electrode.
One thing I noticed was that there were no orings on either the idle screw or air screw. I checked the fiche online and didn't see any but any other carb I ever worked on had orings for proper adjustment.
I'm stumped.